Honeymoon Day 9: Bariloche to El Chalten

Our room at El Puma lodge in El Chalten.
We knew our friends Claire and Cenk were also in Argentina, but had no idea we’d run into them in this mountain town at the end of the world! At this charming brewery, we shared big bowls of Locro stew, the Argentine national dish.
A short warm-up hike to a waterfall in the national park outside town. The big hike is tomorrow.

This morning we left bucolic Bariloche, flew south, and had an epic drive from Calafate airport to El Chalten, a tiny town of ~500 people. This is a no-frills place, full of hardcore hikers and climbers (and us). Looking at where we are on the map, we were feeling very far from home; so it was a welcome surprise to bump into friends from Chicago and join them for lunch. The restaurant where we saw them is on the lot directly between our two hotels.

Tomorrow we’ve got a full-day trek, and I’m already up too late. More on the big hike tomorrow!

Honeymoon Day 2: Buenos Aires

Giant oak door at our hotel, Mio Buenos Aires.
View into a mausoleum, Cementerio de la Recoleta.
Steaks at Don Julio. A must-visit.

Our first impression of BA is of vibrant energy. The people are friendly and open; the food and nightlife are exciting and you can see tango dancers in the streets. People LOVE Messi and Evita. We had amazing coffee at Tónico Cafe and walked around the central business / tourism district.

But, politics and the economy are top of mind for everyone, with inflation still very high (20% per month). US dollars are in demand, and tipping with US bills is appreciated everywhere. Memories of the Junta’s political violence are still fresh, just a generation ago. Protests against the current government are not going on now, but will return once summer ends. Still, overall the city is lively and the mood is positive.

Tomorrow we fly to Mendoza, and we’re both super excited for lunch at Zonda Cocina de Paisaje, which some friends recently visited and recommended very highly.