Category: honeymoon

Honeymoon Day 13: Perito Moreno Glacier

By necessity, we were up in plenty of time to see this beauty of a sunrise. Because of the Andes to the West, water from this lake runs all the way to the Atlantic Ocean, via Rio Santa Cruz.
Crampons for ice trekking.
At the end of the glacier trek, the guides cut off a piece of ice and served everyone a celebratory whiskey, over ~400 year-old rocks.

Hiking on the glacier. I think it will take a long time, maybe years, before the significance of this experience fully sinks in for me. The Perito Moreno Glacier, about 1.5 hours west of El Calafate, is named for the famed explorer. Moreno discovered and named just about every place we’ve visited on this trip. You drive to the national park, continue to the end of the road, and board a boat to cross to the glacier. After a short hike you get your crampons and helmet, and walk around on a tiny area of the massive 100 square mile glacier. After the hike, and having enjoyed a whiskey on-the-glacial-rocks, you ferry back and view the glacier’s eastern and northern faces from a network of catwalks on the adjacent hills. It’s summer here, and it’s hot. As always during summer, on display is the hypnotic, quaking sight and sound of apartment-building-sized ice chunks cracking, tilting, and crashing into the water 200 feet below. The sound is like something from an another dimension, mechanistically translated to ours.

Tomorrow, we’re looking forward to a more relaxed day, visiting a nearby ranch. But for now, I’m going to cheat and add some more pictures—the usual three won’t cut it today. “¡Chao!”

I stepped on my own toe with these bad boys.
Five miles of ice, flowing downhill at 5 feet per day.
This electric blue is an optical effect; only blue light reflects from the super-compressed ice, which has few air bubbles. Long wavelengths are absorbed. But if you break a small piece off and hold it up, it’s perfectly clear.
Maybe spatial photos on Apple Vision Pro will do it justice? iPhone certainly does not.

Honeymoon Day 11: Mate and Recovery Hike

My first real mate experience. It is bitter and very strong. My head was swimming!
El Chalten, Tehuelche for “smoking mountain,” or “holy place.” Our home for the past few days. The town shares its name with the mountain, which is also called Fitz Roy to distinguish it from the other “Chaltens” in the area.
Cerro Torres peak. From our “recovery” hike today.

One of the first things about you notice in Argentina is the mate culture (🗣️👂“mah-tay”). Everyone has his or her own little mate cup, sometimes a glass or metal mug, but often a traditional gourd wrapped in leather. You fill the cup with the tea leaves in the morning, and bring a giant thermos of hot water with you throughout the day, pouring a little water and taking a few sips when you need a boost. Native people drank it through their teeth and spit the leaves, but now people use a metal straw with a wire or mesh filter at the bottom. Even on our domestic flights, we see plenty of mate, sometimes with the gourd, thermos, and snacks all in a little square leather carrier with a handle. I had my first mate at La Esquina here in El Chalten, and it was an experience. I’d been warned to be careful, as it is “quite stimulating,” but still I wasn’t ready for the amount of caffeine—I was wired and my head was swimming! The taste is super bitter, definitely something I’d need to get used to. They encourage newbies to add honey, but of course I had to be hardcore.

Later we went for a short hike for a different view of Cerro Torres, then had dinner with our friends Claire and Cenk, and more of what our new friend Leo called “the best ice cream in the galaxy.” He may be right, it is that good!

Tomorrow we’re looking forward to a pre-dawn hike to see the sunrise hit the Fitz Roy range, then driving back to El Calafate for our next stop.

Honeymoon Day 10: Fitz Roy Massif Hike / Pinch Me I’m Dead

View of our hotel, El Puma, toward the mountain. Today we thought we saw a puma, but our guide informed us it was just a large house cat.
Bagged lunch of empanadas overlooking the glacial lake.
I definitely like hiking now.

Today was a full-day hike guided by Leo, the craftiest guide in El Chalten and the nicest man in Argentina*. We drove a ways outside town this morning to have a longer one-way route, worth it for the additional views. Over the course of 15 miles and 3,100 vertical feet, we saw glaciers and the moraines they left behind over millions of years of glacial movement; we saw the Fitz Roy massif summits, the surrounding peaks, and rivers and lakes all the way to the horizon. I’ve never seen a glacier before (Kelly has), and it’s impossible to describe. It is eerily silent and still, but also appears to rush toward you from the base of those iconic granite peaks, literally frozen in time. We learned that the peaks of the Fitz Roy (aka Chalten) range were all formed by venting magma under the Pacific Ocean ~16 million years ago (a baby in mountain time). The magma cooled into those shapes. The peaks were pushed partially above ground by tectonic plate movement, and then the glaciers scraped away the rest, resulting in the formation pictured above (and in the Patagonia(TM) logo). We finished at a brewery for beers with Leo—resting our feet, reflecting on the day, and thanking him for so earnestly sharing his love of the mountain with us. This was by far my biggest hike ever, and maybe Kelly’s as well, though she’s done some long ones. The views were stunning, but equally great was experiencing something so rare and awe-inspiring together on our honeymoon.

Tomorrow, we’re looking forward to rest and recovery. And hunting for the best coffee in El Chalten.

*well, maybe tied with Eduardo.

Honeymoon Day 9: Bariloche to El Chalten

Our room at El Puma lodge in El Chalten.
We knew our friends Claire and Cenk were also in Argentina, but had no idea we’d run into them in this mountain town at the end of the world! At this charming brewery, we shared big bowls of Locro stew, the Argentine national dish.
A short warm-up hike to a waterfall in the national park outside town. The big hike is tomorrow.

This morning we left bucolic Bariloche, flew south, and had an epic drive from Calafate airport to El Chalten, a tiny town of ~500 people. This is a no-frills place, full of hardcore hikers and climbers (and us). Looking at where we are on the map, we were feeling very far from home; so it was a welcome surprise to bump into friends from Chicago and join them for lunch. The restaurant where we saw them is on the lot directly between our two hotels.

Tomorrow we’ve got a full-day trek, and I’m already up too late. More on the big hike tomorrow!

Honeymoon Day 8: Andean Angling

Moonlight over the lake at the Estancia.
Our wonderful fly-fishing guide, Eduardo, doubles as a picnic chef.
Floating and wading in the Limay; we covered seven miles and saw only one other group all day.

This may have been the day I was most looking forward to, and still it surpassed my expectations. Fishing the crystal clear Rio Limay was both thrilling and meditative. I always picture fishing as a slow, lazy activity. But especially with fly fishing, your mind is active the entire time and the day flies by.

Our guide Eduardo was a joy to be with. He explained the differing climates—the mountain forest of our hotel versus the steppe that surrounds the river. He also explained the differing attitudes of his fishing clientele—“Enjoyers” versus those who bring their “psycho bullshit” to the river, never looking up from the bobbing fly, missing all the scenery, and cursing every bad cast. He told us how proud he is of his two sons, (“13 years apart, same mom!”) who both love the outdoors as much as he does. One is doing a PhD in Andean ecology, combining his two loves: climbing and biology. In the afternoon, Eduardo prepared an elegant meal on a gas hot plate on the riverbank while we continued fishing. After a few days of vegan food, his chicken with grilled onions hit the spot. At the end of the day, he gave us each a big bear hug, and thanked us for being Enjoyers.

Tomorrow we’re looking forward to arriving in El Chalten, where the real hiking begins.

Honeymoon Day 7: Trekking in Baraloche

Me on hiking: “I get it now.” (It only took a trip to Patagonia.) View of our hotel and the lake.
Me on Mamba and Kelly on Barack. (Born November 4, 2008.)
Beet bun, lentil burger. I said vegan and gluten free, I wasn’t kidding.

Today I learned I do enjoy hiking after all. We took a steep and winding trail to a waterfall, and then further up to a vista overlooking the whole lake. It was only a couple of hours, but the payoff felt amazing. After lunch we went horseback riding around the property; our guide explained he’d left farming to come work here where the horses have easier, happier lives. Kelly’s horse, Barack, never fell more than a few paces behind our guide and the lead horse, Tupac. My horse, Mamba, had an attitude and was a bit lazy, lagging behind and stopping whenever she felt like it, but breaking into a trot as soon as the stable was in sight. But we developed an understanding and decided to show off our trotting for Kelly; we got along fine.

Finally we had a glass of Torrontés on the lawn before dinner. We learned this hotel and ranch has 500 acres, but a capacity of only 28 guests. No wonder it feels so private and calm.

It was a peaceful day. We’re super excited for a full-day fly fishing excursion tomorrow!

Honeymoon Day 6: Mendoza to Bariloche

Our room at Estancia Peuma Hue. The name, in a mix of Spanish and native Mapuche, meaning something like “Ranch of Dreams,” or “Sweet Dreams Ranch.” It fits.
After four days of ribeyes, Malbecs, and empanadas, we are now at a plant-based, gluten-free health resort. It’s time.
A quick post-lunch kayak tour around Lago Gutiérrez. Once we established that I should steer (and paddle), it was smooth sailing.

We were sad to leave Mendoza this morning, but we both agreed it was the perfect amount of time; another full day of food and wine would have been too much. Dinner at Brindillas was the perfect cap to that leg of the trip. From the plane we could see Aconcagua, South America’s highest peak.

We found an amazing coffee shop in Bariloche, then drove to the Estancia and have been appreciating the setting, right in the middle of Argentina’s oldest national park, Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi. Tomorrow we’re looking forward to hiking in the morning and horseback riding in the afternoon.

🍯🌜 Day 5: La Buena Vida ✨ Guest Post by Kelly 💁🏻‍♀️

🚲🏔️🤙🏼
Biking along the paved and protected bike path in Mendoza, overlooking vineyards and the Andes
🍋🌞😎
The most refreshing and tart lemonade featuring fresh mint, a poolside treat to cool off after our ride
🍽️🫛😋
Potato pillows at Brindillas, one of many delicious courses we enjoyed

Qué tal?! Drew let me take over his blog today, our last in Mendoza before we head to Bariloche.

After two wonderful days of delicious food and wine, we decided to have a more active day. We rented bikes and, despite their janky handlebars, limited braking capacity, and wobbly frames, enjoyed a leisurely ride throughout sunny southern Mendoza. Investment in the area is evidenced by many new construction sites, mostly new gated communities and some new wineries. I expect if we are able to return to Mendoza someday, it may look quite different.

We have enjoyed so much good food and wine already on the trip. The most unique elements of the cuisine here are the fresh herbs, fruits, and vegetables. Most all are picked from onsite gardens or restaurant-owned farms. Though the oregano oil (with tomato ice cream) at La Zonda and fresh basil topping (over risotto) at Casarena were special, the simple mint sprig in our lemonades may prove most memorable. Perfection after a hot bike ride!

Our Mendoza experience concluded with another world class restaurant, Brindillas. The ten-course tasting menu offered a wine pairing, which Drew did. The chef worked hard to modify each dish to accommodate my Celiac, including GF table side bread. The space was simple. The food was marvelous. Best still was the company.

❤️

Honeymoon Day 4: Wine Tour in Mendoza

Inside our hotel, Entre Cielos.
The cellar at the first winery, Alta Vista. In the adjacent room is the owner’s private collection, a walk-in cage full of dust-covered bottles. He visits from France only a few times a year.
The second stop, Cruzat, does only sparkling wines. This will not be a rosé—the pink is from Pinot noir grapes, but the machine behind it will clarify the color after the first fermentation. We did a blind tasting later and this was my favorite.

Our guide Eugencia is a native Mendocina, and has been in wine and hospitality her whole life. She explained to us everything about Mendoza’s history, the winemaking process, and the regional irrigation (all meltwater from the mountains, carefully rationed by land parcel). And we explained to her what is the big deal with Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce (“… kind of like if Messi dated Eva Perón”). We finished with another amazing lunch with pairings at the final stop, Casarena.

Tomorrow we have a free day, and may try to rent bikes. There’s a brand new protected bike path running from our hotel to downtown Mendoza, and passing a bunch of wineries; I’ve been jealous of all the cyclists we’ve seen!